1 · Light sensor divider (A0)
Wire: LDR from 5V to A0; 10 kΩ from A0 to GND. This is the divider from Circuit lab 02.
Connect a board to see readings.
Embedded · Hardware lab · Intermediate · about 60 minutes
Plug an Arduino into your computer and this page reads its inputs and drives its outputs, live. Then measure real circuits and compare them with the models you have been using: a light sensor, a thermistor, a charging capacitor, a night light and a 555 timer.
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The sketch is plain text at 115 200 baud, so you can also type its commands (such as PING or READ) into the IDE’s Serial Monitor. Pins 0 and 1 are never used, because they carry the USB link.
Not connected.
Simulated board. These readings come from the site’s models, not from hardware. Use the sliders to change the pretend bench.
Voltages assume the board’s 5 V reference and 10-bit converter (0–1023). The USB 5 V is often a little low (4.8–5.1 V), which shifts every reading by the same proportion. A pin with nothing connected “floats” and reads random values: that is normal.
Each experiment says how to wire it, then compares what your board measures with what the site’s model predicts. Differences of a few per cent are normal: real parts have tolerances.
Wire: LDR from 5V to A0; 10 kΩ from A0 to GND. This is the divider from Circuit lab 02.
Connect a board to see readings.
Wire: 10 kΩ NTC thermistor from 5V to A1; 10 kΩ from A1 to GND. Hold the thermistor between your fingers and watch it warm up.
Connect a board to see readings.
Wire: 10 kΩ from D7 to A2; 100 µF capacitor from A2 to GND (its − leg, the striped side, to GND). The board empties the capacitor, switches D7 high and records the voltage at A2.
The recording takes about five time constants.
Wire: keep the light-sensor divider on A0. Add an LED and 220 Ω resistor from D9 to GND (long leg towards D9). The page reads the light level and sets the LED’s brightness, like the night light project, with map() between two readings you take.
Take the two readings first.
Wire: build the Blinky circuit, but power it from the Arduino’s 5V and GND, not from a 9 V battery: a 9 V signal would damage the input. Connect the 555’s pin 3 to D4.
The board times one high and one low pulse (it waits up to 3 s for each).
Every command the page sends and every reply, so you can see there is nothing hidden. Readings are left out to keep it short.
Want to see any sketch’s output, or plot your own values? Use the serial monitor and plotter.